The Valley of México has been the country's centre of gravity since earliest prehistory, long before the concept of a Mexican nation existed. Based in this mountain-ringed basin - 100km long, 60km wide and over 2400m high, dotted with great salt- and freshwater lagoons and dominated by the vast snowcapped peaks of Popocatépetl and Ixtaccíhuatl - were the most powerful civilizations the country has seen. Today the lakes have all but disappeared, and the mountains are shrouded in smog, but it continues to be the heart of the country, its physical centre and the generator of every political, cultural and economic pulse.
At the crossroads of everything sprawls the vibrant, elegant, frenetic and fascinating Mexico City . In population one of the largest cities in the world, with more than twenty million inhabitants, its lure is irresistible. Colonial mansions and excavated pyramids vie for attention with the city's fabulous museums and galleries, while above them tower the concrete and glass of thrusting development. But above all, the city is alive - exciting, sometimes frightening, always bewildering, but boldly alive. You can't avoid it, and if you genuinely want to know anything of Mexico you shouldn't try, even if the attraction does sometimes seem to be the same ghoulish fascination that draws onlookers to the site of a particularly nasty accident.
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