We are on a boat dive off the archipelago of Fernando de Noronha, about 345 kilometres north-east of mainland Brazil. Its 21 islets are tips of a volcano that has been extinct for about 20,000 years, now a pristine eco-sanctuary that offers the best diving in Brazil.
At three degrees south of the equator, the water is always warm, visibility often stretches to 30 metres and marine life is diverse, from sponges and sea urchins to barracuda, rays and moray eels.
Fernando de Noronha's main island is 10 kilometres long and home to about 3000 people (mostly marine park workers, pousada (small hotel) owners and tourist guides), but its most famous residents are the spinner dolphins, one of the reasons UNESCO declared the archipelago a World Heritage Site in 2001. About 2000 dolphins hang out in the Bahia dos Golfhinos, arriving at dawn to rest after a night hunting in the open sea.
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