Friday, October 06, 2006

Mexico for babys

It shouldn't be that difficult finding somewhere dry and hot for a winter break with a baby in tow, yet most travel agents I called were surprisingly unresponsive and only too eager to wrangle me into a kids' club hotel. Inept recommendations included somewhere blistering, without air-conditioning (how would sir like the baby cooked?); a "charming cliff-top hotel perched on a cascade of steps" (sounds like fun with the pram); and my favourite, "How about a free sunhat for your baby?" In Borders, I discovered just how far down the pecking order I had dropped. Guidebooks for pet owners outnumbered those for parents three to one.

And then it hit me. Warm climate, warm people - why not head for Latin America? An inspired idea or so it seemed until, at Mexico City Airport, the security official started tut-tutting in front of us and insisted on bringing over his colleague. Was there a problem? No. It was simply to let him take a peek at la preciosa. Imagine that happening at Gatwick.

Our first stop was Morelia, a 16th-century colonial city that feels like it has been dozing ever since. The centro historico is built in a Baroque style (called Plateresque, apparently) around the tree-filled Plaza de Armas square dominated by an imposing cathedral and flanked by rows of shoeshine stalls down one side and gazpacho stands selling fruit cocktails (or cócteles energicos) along the other.


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