Mexican Days: Journeys Into the Heart of Mexico By Tony Cohan

For San Miguel de Allende, a 16th-century colonial town northwest of Mexico City, has, over the years, indeed been overrun. We find it saturated with outsiders at the beginning of Tony Cohan's travelogue "Mexican Days," as the writer, an American who has made his home in the town for many years, sits on a bench in the central plaza, watching the "Japanese tourists with digital cameras" and the "oversize gringos in Bermuda shorts lacing the air with English."
Yes, San Miguel can seem like "a paradise," a "site of fiestas and miracles, ecstatic religion and fiery revolt, unearthly beauty and curative air -- a place for dreamers and artists." But paradises are easily spoiled.
To make matters worse, a film crew has come to San Miguel, along with such actors as Antonio Banderas, Salma Hayek and Johnny Depp, to make a picture called "Once Upon a Time in Mexico." With a horde of Hollywood types essentially taking over the town, Mr. Cohan seems ready to cast himself out of paradise. When a magazine editor calls, asking him if he'd like to journey around Mexico for an extensive travel piece, it doesn't take him long to flee.
Thus begins what is mostly an engaging travel narrative. Mr. Cohan is a great observer of detail, whether in the smog-choked streets of Mexico City or at a haunting resort in the Mayan jungle or among the urban ruins of the old silver city of Guanajuato.

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