"After a few days on the Galapagos," said the actor Paul Bettany, "I had a wobbly. I went to our director, Peter (Weir), and said I’d made a mess of the whole film. I wanted to reshoot every scene involving me and animals. It was only on the Galapagos that I felt this sense of wonderment, a huge rush of love for nature."
The film is Master and Commander, which hurtled on to the big screen with Russell Crowe at the helm. The subtitle is The Far Side of the World - a part played by the Galapagos Islands, their first appearance in a movie. And co-star Bettany plays Stephen Maturin, a character passionate about nature and obsessed by the islands. "I was completely humbled by the Galapagos," he told me. "It’s an extraordinary place. You should go."
So I did. In search of wonderment, and to find out how on earth Hollywood was allowed to use these sacrosanct islands, haven to the most extraordinary collection of flora and fauna on Earth, in one of this year’s biggest cinematic splashes. Invasive species are the scourge of the Galapagos - and you don’t get much more invasive than Hollywood brandishing a blockbuster. Furthermore, epic, seafaring adventures haven’t been especially kind to the islands in the past.
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