For centuries, Guilin has sent Chinese poets and painters into a swoon. Their scroll-painting images of Guilin's dragon-spined mountains are so pervasive that on first glimpse of these celebrated karst upthrusts you may think you have stepped on to a late Tang dynasty chocolate-box lid. But the blast of a truck's air-horns or the restaurant cashier shamelessly hiking your bill quickly help overcome such silk-screened delusions.
Guilin city, population 700,000, in the southern Chinese province of Guanxi, is a huge domestic and international tourist attraction, drawing eight million visitors a year, but that is only half the regional story.
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